not a heck of da lat

in da lat.

it was fun to get a closer view in a less touristy area of vietnam. the surrounding land is beautiful, and the smell of fresh coffee beans fills the air. that is unless, you are in the market. there, the smell of animals fills the air, and i tried really hard to not look at them or what was about to happen to them. it was enough to make a girl a vegetarian.

we had the best pho ever on the street. we questioned the cleanliness of the bowls, chopsticks, and cups we were using, but soon forgot when we tasted what they were holding. a couple of locals sat w/ us, and had some tea.

when they left, the tea cups were put right back in the basket where they started ... ready for the next customer.

i had to deal w/ 2 things in that moment:

1. i had to decide if what i had just done was the equivalent of a. making out w/ the intoxicated, few-toothed man that was just at our table, b. chewing abc gum i found in a public place, c. licking a toilet seat, or d. all of the above.

2. i had to accept the realization that the man that i do kiss on a regular basis, really could care less, and continued to slurp down his pho and the rest of mine.

and then i puked in my mouth a little, and cursed myself for being such a princess.

a 3 day tour

we spent the last few days on a boat called the lagoon explorer 2, in some of the most stunning surroundings we have ever seen ... halong bay.

we were with 3 other couples:

pete and avril were from the UK. pete is a pilot with a eva airlines, so throughout their many years of marriage, they have traveled much, and had many stories to tell about distant places that most haven't even heard of. of course, everything sounds even more terrific w/ a witty english bend. one of my favorites was about the names that some of the taiwanese pilots gave themselves when they were required to use english names. they chose call signs from the boys in the movie top gun. those of you that know the love i have for top gun can imagine my distinct pleasure at the thought of 'maverick, goose and viper' telling the tower in all seriousness, that they are ready for take off. i begged pete to tell maverick that he is dangerous.

phil and samona were from switzerland, and both were translators. between the two, they could speak italian, french, german, english, and bits of mandarin, etc. not bad if you are impressed by that sort of thing. i guess.

rick and sarah were from SEATTLE, and both originally from wisconsin and michigan. rick's parents were from da UP. what are the chances?

our guide's name was hai (pronounced 'hi') which is fitting. upon hearing i was in advertising, he very seriously asked if i would 'advertise him' to help him find a girlfriend. a hopeless romantic, he did everything he could throughout 3 days to show us he was worthy. from leading kayak excursions, to playing his guitar and serenading us with every cheesy american love song known to man ... he always wanted to make sure i was paying attention and noting his skills. "i got it, hai. yes, i'm working on your brand ... have you heard of match.com?"

i think the highlight for both of us was kayaking through fishing villages. in the middle of absolutely no where ... families make their homes on tiny boats and floating docks. they have so little, and i'm not sure the contact that is available with the outside world. some have tvs on the floors in the middle of the empty family living space. it was the radiant little faces that beckoned us closer, and though initially timid, their faces lit up when we showed them the digital display on our camera. they were amazing in their ability to maneuver the boats (even w/ their feet), and they chased us for more, giggling and squealing uncontrollably. their parents welcomed us onto their boats and offered tea and food. how is it that the most generous are so often the ones w/ the least?

i feel really blessed to have visited this gorgeous little pocket of the world, and even more so to have been close enough to catch a glimpse of the sparkle in those precious tiny eyes.

the irony inside

hanoi is a place of contrast. everywhere we look, we see run down buildings stacked on top of one another. they are built very narrow and tall to use the space most efficiently. woven into this fragile looking mosaic, are bursts of color that connect the landscape into something beautiful. there is ornate architecture ... like fossils that hint at different times from deep within their surroundings. there are hard working people with very little ... many of them .. and big BiG smiles.

i wonder when luxury shifted to commonplace. when did "wants" start feeling more like "needs"? i'll admit that i'm most definitely an offender. fashion, as artistic expression, is one of my favorite 'mediums' to obsess on. but when did we start measuring the inside of people with an extrinsic ruler?

as i spend more and more time in places where people don't have the option of stepping onto our scale, its insignificance becomes glaring. because when you take away all the distractions ... clothes, make up, decoration, possessions ... you're left with just people.

and i think that may be the greatest irony of all ...

without anything to obstruct my vision of the spirit ... the people look more beautiful than ever.

and we're off ...

10 weeks, 6 countries, multiple climates, and varying reasons ...

our possessions have been reduced to two backpacks, and it feels already like not enough and too much to carry. with great anticipation, we set out; and seeing many of your faces along the way, may be the thing we are looking most forward to.

more soon from vietnam.

to be fully human, fully myself
to accept all that i am, all that you envision,
this is my prayer.

walk me out to the rim of life,
beyond security.
take me to the exquisite edge of courage
and release me to become.

-sue monk kidd

fall in

it might be the cooler air that eased us into making the decision, but it's official. shanghai will be our home for a while longer. making the decision definitely made things easier, and so did the crossing of the 6 month mark, which we've heard from many, signals the end of the most difficult transition.

so here we are. thankful and missing home... all wrapped into one messy chapter that we are glad is ours.

i am not forfeiting my space to whine. but today, in the blowing leaves of fall, the thanksgiving season feels well placed.

hope

i think the significance of this moment in our history is only beginning to sink in. for years to come, we'll be telling stories of where we were when president obama was elected.

i was in china, in a jam packed american bar called malone's, with my friend margaret, the "best burger in shanghai", and a renewed pride in the country i come from. people from europe, australia, canada, and china congratulated me in the following days. they shared their hope for healthy international relationships, and their thankfulness about a new world leader that they respect. we heard it was the first time that democrats and republicans didn't divide between the 3 floors in malone's. i have a feeling that it was the first time an american election party wasn't limited to americans.

chad was in seattle, and soon found himself among hundreds who took to the streets in celebration. there were people jumping out of cars, strangers hugging, and a shared sense that we've accomplished something ... that we will dare to hope for change ... that we are strong when we are unified.

when i listen to barack obama speak, it is evident to me that he sees the beautiful faces behind the issues that we, as a country, make decisions about. i see conviction, and yet not idealistic ignorance. i watch him wrestle in the midst of no easy answers. i'm inspired by his willingness to sit in the "grey".

this week a chinese friend was asking me my thoughts on the election and obama. she said that the people of china and the international community really wanted obama to win. with a knowing and gracious sincerity, she looked at me and said, "we want what is best for your country. america is the world's leader, and what is good for you, is good for us too."

i had been hearing similar sentiment in the surrounding days of the election, but it was only in that moment that the weighty realization set in. i am humbled by the privilege i have as an american, and by the long reaching impact of my vote.

the result of the election is evidence that we, as a country, have come a long way. and yet, so much ugliness is not so far in our past. i hope this is the beginning of a sensitivity towards perspectives that come from lives unlike our own ... stories often untold, but no less human and no less significant. i hope that we would hold gently our power, that we would listen carefully ... and that we would continue to fight together until all voices are heard as loudly as ours, whether it be across international borders, or right in our own neighborhoods.

the glorious

ah bali, it's been a week with no alarm clock, no straightening iron, and no decisions aside from what bathing suit to put on and where to eat. it has been glorious.

bali has the perfect weather. heat without humidity, a breeze without the chill ... our villa was more outside than in, and the thought of our shanghai return has me mourning the fresh air.

swim, sand, surf, sun, and soccer. the bali life.

i do hope to see you again.